The high-voltage ignition module is used for self-defense and the manufacture of modern equipment. Knowing the sequence of work, you can make such a device with your own hands. This article will tell you how to do this and where you can find finished products.
Description
The high voltage module is a block with 4 wires, 2 of which are required for connecting power. As you can see, nothing complicated.
If you need a high-voltage module, you can purchase it from an online store or make it yourself. The finished device runs on AA lithium batteries with 3.6 to 6 volts at the input. The output can produce a power of 400 volts.
The generator has 4 wires. To check the quality of your purchase, you can take a 3.7-volt lithium-ion battery module. According to the parameters, a spark should fly up to 2 cm between the electrodes.
Such work must be done especially carefully. Disconnect the wires of the high-voltage module and connect them to the battery. When power is applied, a sound effect in the form of a whistle is noted. A discharge will also occur, the impact length of which is 1.5-2 cm.
How it works
The operation of the high-voltage converter module can be demonstrated using a generator. To do this, you need power from a 12-volt UPS and a 25-watt lamp. When the wires are connected, it glows fully glowing.
Description of the manufacture of high-voltage generators
The ability to tinker helps out more than once in life. For example, good high-voltage generators are quite expensive. In addition, they are difficult to get. But you can successfully make a high-voltage module with your own hands. To do this, you will need a stepper motor that can work perfectly in generation mode.
They attach a handle directly to the stepper shaft, rotate it and charge the phone while on the go. You can make this charger yourself in a few minutes.
Improving Models
There are many similar inventions, but their power is not high enough. To charge the phone you need at least 2 W at the output of such a motor for old model mobile device and at least 5 W - for a modern smartphone.
Where can I get a high-voltage module with good power? Let's try to do it ourselves. We will select a convenient rotation handle for the stepper, and connect all the wire leads according to the diagram. The resulting DC outputs will go to the wattmeter and to the load, which is selected for this engine and the speed according to the optimal parameters.
What kind of power can be developed on a large stepper motor at a speed of 120 per minute? Let's start the experiment. The wattmeter shows 0.8 W at a voltage of 6 volts and a current of 0.11-0.12 amperes. At faster rotations, the peak figure reaches 1 ampere, but this is at very fast speeds.
Therefore, such a device requires improvement. You need a converter that increases the speed by 3-4 times so that you can successfully charge your phone while traveling.
For this, a commutator motor is used. You can make a belt drive for this engine to increase its speed by 3 times. The result is an installation with a pulley diameter that is 3 times larger than that installed on the stepper motor. Now such a device will rotate 3 times faster, which will allow it to reach 2-2.2 W. In this case, the voltage is 17 volts, the current is 0.12-0.13 amperes. This power is already more significant. If the device is mounted on a table, turning the handle is quite simple.
The higher the rpm, the more useful power the generator can produce.
Making a stun gun: preparation
Electroshock devices can be very powerful. The law allows the use of devices up to 3 Watts, which are not capable of causing serious harm to health, but guarantee a fairly strong electric shock and burns.
The device diagram is as follows:
- power supply;
- boost converter;
- high voltage voltage multiplier.
You can use a regular lithium-ion battery of compact size, or better yet, a lithium iron phosphate battery. It has a lower capacity for the same weight, and the nominal voltage is 3.2 volts versus 3.7 volts for the lithium-ion variant.
This device has many advantages:
- With its own capacity of only 700 mA/hour, it is capable of delivering currents of 30-50 A.
- Has a service life of 10-15 years.
- Capable of operating at temperatures down to -30 degrees without loss of capacity and other negative consequences.
- Environmentally friendly, safe, does not swell or explode.
- Loses capacity much more slowly.
- Not so sensitive to charger parameters, can be charged with high currents without overheating.
For the converter, you can use a ready-made model from China. Or make it yourself. The most important thing in such a device is the transformer. It can be taken from the standby source of a non-working computer power supply. It is desirable that it be of an elongated type, which will facilitate the winding process.
Assembling the device
The transformer must be disassembled, the core removed and heated with a blowtorch for 5-10 minutes. The structure of the glue will weaken, and it will be easier for the halves to separate.
There is a gap inside. Removing the halves in the core is replaced by the stage of winding all the factory windings, leaving only the surface of the bare frame.
Rules for performing winding movements
The high-voltage stun gun module requires that the primary type of transformer winding be wound. A wire length of 0.5 mm is folded in half. The optimal diameter is from 0.4 to 0.7 mm. You will need to wind at least 8 turns and bring the other end of the wires out.
We insulate the wound winding using several layers of fluoroplastic or transparent tape. A piece of stranded wire placed in thick insulation is soldered to a thin wire, the thickness of which is no more than 0.05 mm.
We insulate the places where soldering was done using heat shrink. We take out the wire and fix it with hot glue so as not to accidentally break it during the winding process.
We wind the primary winding, 100-120 turns, alternating it with several layers of insulation. By its principle, winding is simple: a row - from left to right, a second - from right to left, with insulation between them. We repeat this 10 to 12 times.
After the winding is completed, the wires are cut off, stranded high-voltage wires and heat shrink are soldered to them. Everything is fixed with several layers of transparent tape and the transformer is assembled.
If you don’t want to wind the turns for so long, you can purchase ready-made modules in Chinese online stores at a very affordable price or make a high-voltage module yourself.
Device test
The next part of the voltage multiplier is high-voltage diodes and capacitors, which can be taken from a computer power supply. Diodes are also needed of the high-voltage type. Their voltage should be from 4 kW. Such items can also be purchased in online stores.
The case can be a box from a flashlight or player, but it must be made of dielectric material: plastic, bakelite, fiberglass.
It is recommended to fill the multiplier with a high-voltage converter with epoxy resin, molten wax or hot melt adhesive. The latter can severely deform the case if it is not placed in a container with cold water.
Electrodes can be taken from a regular plug. The shocker is equipped with a safety switch to protect against accidental activation. To activate the device, remove it from the fuse. The indicator LED lights up, then press the button.
The high-voltage module - voltage converter successfully demonstrates performance in the stun gun. The charger is built on the basis of a microcircuit, where a voltage of 5 volts is supplied to the input of the module, and 3.6 volts at the output. This charging allows you to power the device from any USB port.
Using solder, you can make protective spark gaps that limit the arc length for safe work high voltage converter. The shocker is ready.
Manufacturing a high-voltage module from an energy-saving lamp
And such a device can be easily made with your own hands. But where can I get a high-voltage module? You can use a regular incandescent light bulb. At first we wind no more than 80 skeins. The second layer is 400-600 turns. Between each layer, do not forget to insulate with tape.
To test the device, we connect it through a 35 W limit light bulb. The result is a fairly powerful high-voltage ignition module.
Areas of application of products
Where is the high voltage module used? Such devices are widely used for the manufacture of modern equipment and can serve as a laboratory high-voltage generator. Using such a device, you can build a homemade shocker, a system for igniting fuel in an injector or engine.
Can be used to provide power to a portable Geiger counter, dosimeter, and types of equipment that require high voltages with a power supply that has low power.
The microcircuit device is turned on in the “Multivibrator” mode with frequency indicators adjusted depending on the characteristics of the transformer. The high level, which indicates the current output flowing through the resistor and the primary winding of the transformer, is capable of charging a 10 uF capacitor. In order to produce an electric shock, you will need a transformer device, the multiplication factor of which is 1 to 400 or higher.
To obtain a spark of 1 mm, a voltage of about 1000 V is needed. Knowing the sequence of work, you can make such a device with your own hands.
Thanks to the development of modern electronics, specialized current and voltage stabilizer microcircuits are produced in large quantities. They are divided according to functionality into two main types, DC DC step-up voltage converter and step-down converter. Some combine both types, but this does not affect the efficiency for the better.
Once upon a time, many radio amateurs dreamed of pulse stabilizers, but they were rare and in short supply. The assortment in Chinese stores is especially pleasing.
- 1. Application
- 2. Popular conversions
- 3. Boost voltage converters
- 4. Examples of boosters
- 5. Tusotek
- 6. For XL4016
- 7. On XL6009
- 8.MT3608
- 9. High voltage at 220
- 10. Powerful converters
Application
I recently purchased many different LEDs in 1W, 3W, 5W, 10W, 20W, 30W, 50W, 100W. All of them are of low quality, to compare them with high quality ones. To connect and power this whole bunch, I have 12 V and 19 V power supplies from laptops. I had to actively look through Aliexpress in search of low-voltage LED drivers.
Modern step-up voltage converters DC DC and step-down voltage converters were purchased, 1-2 Amperes and powerful ones 5-7 Amperes. In addition, they are perfect for connecting a laptop to 12V in a car; they will pull 80-90 watts. They are quite suitable as a charger for 12V and 24V car batteries.
In Chinese online stores, voltage stabilizers are a little more expensive.
Popular microcircuits for step-up switching stabilizers are:
- LM2577, obsolete with low efficiency;
- XL4016, 2 times more efficient than 2577;
- XL6009;
- MT3608.
Stabilizers are designated thus AC-DC, DC-DC. AC is alternating current, DC is direct current. This will make the search easier if you specify it in the request.
It is not rational to make a DC DC boost converter with your own hands; I will spend too much time on assembly and configuration. You can buy it from the Chinese for 50-250 rubles, this price includes delivery. For this amount I will receive an almost finished product that can be finalized as quickly as possible.
These switching ICs are used in conjunction with others, wrote the characteristics and datasheet for popular ICs for power supply,.
Popular conversions
Stabilizers-boosters are classified into low-voltage and high-voltage from 220 to 400 volts. Of course, there are ready-made blocks with a fixed boost value, but I prefer custom ones, they have wider functionality.
The most commonly requested transformations are:
- 12V - 19V;
- 12 - 24 Volts;
- 5 - 12V;
- 3 - 12V
- 12 - 220V;
- 24V - 220V.
Boosters are called car inverters.
Boost Voltage Converters
My laboratory power supply runs from a laptop unit at 19V 90W, but this is not enough to test series-connected LEDs. A series LED string requires 30V to 50V. Buying a ready-made unit for 50-60 Volts and 150W turned out to be a bit expensive, about 2000 rubles. Therefore, I ordered the first step-up stabilizer for 500 rubles. with an increase to 50V. After checking, it turned out that it reaches a maximum of 32V, because there are 35V capacitors at the input and output. I convincingly wrote to the seller about my indignation, and a couple of days later they returned my money.
I ordered a second one up to 55V under the Tusotek brand for 280 rubles, the booster turned out to be excellent. From 12V it easily increases to 60V, I didn’t turn the construction resistor higher, it would suddenly burn out. The radiator is glued with heat-conducting glue, so it was not possible to see the markings of the microcircuit. The cooling is done a little incorrectly, the heat sink pad of the Schottky diode and the controller is attached to the board, and not to the heatsink.
Examples of boosters
XL4016
Let's look at the 4 models that I have in stock. I didn’t waste time on photos; I took the sellers too.
Characteristics.
| Tusotek | XL4016 | Driver | MT3608 | |
| Input, V | 6 – 35V | 6 – 32V | 5 – 32V | 2-24V |
| Input current | up to 10A | up to 10A | — | — |
| Output, V | 6 – 55V | 6 – 32V | 6 – 60V | up to 28V |
| Output current | 5A, max 7A | 5A, max 8A | max 2A | 1A, max 2A |
| Price | 260rub | 250rub | 270rub | 55rub |
I have a lot of experience working with Chinese goods, most of them have shortcomings right away. Before use, I inspect and modify them to increase the reliability of the entire structure. These are mainly assembly problems that arise when quickly assembling products. I am finalizing LED spotlights, lamps for the home, car low and high beam lamps, controllers for controlling daytime running lights (DRL). I recommend that everyone do this; with a minimum of time spent, the service life can be doubled.
Be careful, not all have protection against short circuit, overheating, overload and improper connection.
The actual power depends on the mode; the specifications indicate the maximum. Of course, the characteristics of each manufacturer will be different; they install different diodes, and wind the inductor with wires of different thicknesses.
Tusotek
In my opinion, the best of all boosting stabilizers. Some elements do not have a reserve of characteristics or they are lower than those of PWM microcircuits, which is why they cannot provide even half of the promised current. Tusotek has a 1000mF 35V capacitor at the input and 470mF 63V at the output. The heat sink side with a metal plate is soldered to the board. But they are soldered poorly and askew, only one edge lies on the board, there is a gap under the other. Without looking at it, it is not clear how well they are sealed. If it’s really bad, then it’s better to dismantle them and put this side on the radiator; cooling will improve by 2 times.
A variable resistor sets the required number of volts. It will remain unchanged if you change the input voltage, it does not depend on it. For example, I set 50V at the output, increased it from 5V to 12V at the input, the set 50V did not change.
On XL4016
This converter has such a feature that it can only boost up to 50% of the input volts. If you connect 12V, then the maximum increase will be 18V. The description stated that it can be used for laptops that are powered by a maximum of 19V. But its main purpose turned out to be working with laptops from a car battery. Probably the 50% limitation can be removed by changing the resistors that set this mode. The output volts directly depend on the number of inputs. 
Heat removal is much better, the radiators are installed correctly. Only instead of thermal paste there is a heat-conducting gasket to avoid electrical contact with the radiator. At the input there is a capacitor 470mF 50V, at the other end 470mF at 35V.
On XL6009
A representative of modern efficient converters, like outdated models on the LM2596, is available in several options, from miniature to models with voltage indicators.
Efficiency example:
- 92% when converting 12V to 19V, 2A load.
The datasheet immediately indicates the scheme for using as power supply for a laptop in a car from 10V to 30V. Also on the XL6009 it is easy to implement bipolar power supply at +24 and -24V. As with most converters, the efficiency decreases the higher the voltage difference and the greater the ampere.
MT3608
Miniature model with good efficiency up to 97%, PWM frequency 1.2 MHz. Efficiency increases as input voltage increases and decreases as current increases. On the MT3608 boost converter you can count on a small current, internally limited to 4A in case of a short circuit. In terms of volts, it is advisable not to exceed 24.
High voltage at 220
Conversion units from 12.24 volts to 220 are widespread among car enthusiasts like. Used to connect devices powered by 220V. The Chinese mainly sell 7-10 models of such modules, the rest are ready-made devices. Price from 400 rub. Separately, I would like to note that if, for example, 500W is indicated on a finished unit, then this will often be a short-term maximum power. Real long-term will be about 240W.
Powerful converters
For special cases, powerful DC-DC boost converters of 10-20A and up to 120V are needed. I will show you several popular and affordable models. They mostly do not have markings or the seller hides them so as not to buy them elsewhere. I haven’t personally tested them; in terms of voltage, they coexist according to the promised characteristics. But the ampere will be a little less. Although products in this price category always hold the stated load, I bought similar devices only with LCD screens.
600W
Powerful #1:
- power 600W;
- 10-60V converts to 12-80V;
- price from 800 rub.
You can find it by searching “600W DC 10-60V to 12-80V Boost Converter Step Up”
400W
Powerful #2:
- power 400W;
- 6-40V converts to 8-80V;
- output up to 10A;
- price from 1200 rub.
To search, enter in the search engine “DC 400W 10A 8-80V Boost Converter Step-Up”
B900W
Powerful #3:
- power 900W;
- 8-40V converts to 10-120V;
- output up to 15A.
- price from 1400 rub.
The only unit that is designated as B900W and can be easily found.
Sometimes you need to get high voltage from low voltage. For example, for a high-voltage programmer powered by a 5-volt USB, you need somewhere around 12 volts.
What should I do? There are DC-DC conversion circuits for this. As well as specialized microcircuits that allow you to solve this problem in a dozen parts.
Principle of operation
So, how do you make, for example, five volts something more than five? You can come up with many ways - for example, charge capacitors in parallel, and then switch them in series. And so many many times per second. But there is a simpler way, using the properties of inductance, to maintain current strength.
To make it very clear, I will first show an example for plumbers.
Phase 1
The damper closes abruptly. The flow has nowhere else to go, and the turbine, being accelerated, continues to push the liquid forward, because cannot get up instantly. Moreover, it presses it with a force greater than the source can develop. Drives the slurry through the valve into the pressure accumulator. Where does part of it (already with increased pressure) go to the consumer? From where, thanks to the valve, it no longer returns.
Phase 3
And again the damper closes, and the turbine begins to violently push liquid into the battery. Making up for the losses that occurred there in phase 3.
Back to diagrams
We get out of the basement, take off the plumber's sweatshirt, throw the gas wrench into the corner and, with new knowledge, begin to construct the diagram.
Instead of a turbine, inductance in the form of a choke is quite suitable for us. An ordinary key (in practice, a transistor) is used as a damper, a diode is naturally used as a valve, and a capacitor takes on the role of a pressure accumulator. Who else but he is capable of accumulating potential. That's it, the converter is ready!
Phase 1
The key opens, but the coil cannot be stopped. The energy stored in the magnetic field rushes out, the current tends to be maintained at the same level as it was at the moment the key was opened. As a result, the voltage at the output from the coil jumps sharply (to make way for the current) and, breaking through the diode, is packed into the capacitor. Well, part of the energy goes into the load.
Phase 3
The key opens and the energy from the coil again breaks through the diode into the capacitor, increasing the voltage that dropped during phase 3. The cycle is completed.
As can be seen from the process, it is clear that due to the greater current from the source, we increase the voltage at the consumer. So the equality of power here must be strictly observed. Ideally, with a converter efficiency of 100%:
U source *I source = U consumption *I consumption
So if our consumer requires 12 volts and consumes 1A, then from a 5 volt source into the converter you need to feed as much as 2.4A. At the same time, I did not take into account the losses of the source, although usually they are not very large (the efficiency is usually about 80-90%).
If the source is weak and is not able to supply 2.4 amperes, then at 12 volts there will be wild ripples and a drop in voltage - the consumer will eat the contents of the capacitor faster than the source will throw it there.
Circuit design
There are a lot of ready-made DC-DC solutions. Both in the form of microblocks and specialized microcircuits. I won’t split hairs and, to demonstrate my experience, I’ll give an example of a circuit on the MC34063A that I already used in the example.
- SWC/SWE pins of the transistor switch of the chip SWC is its collector, and SWE is its emitter. The maximum current it can draw is 1.5A of input current, but you can also connect an external transistor for any desired current (for more details, see the datasheet for the chip).
- DRC - compound transistor collector
- Ipk - current protection input. There, the voltage is removed from the shunt Rsc; if the current is exceeded and the voltage on the shunt (Upk = I*Rsc) becomes higher than 0.3 volts, the converter will stall. Those. To limit the incoming current to 1A, you need to install a 0.3 Ohm resistor. I didn’t have a 0.3 ohm resistor, so I put a jumper there. It will work, but without protection. If anything, it will kill my microcircuit.
- TC is the input of the capacitor that sets the operating frequency.
- CII is the comparator input. When the voltage at this input is below 1.25 volts, the key generates pulses and the converter operates. As soon as it gets bigger, it turns off. Here, through a divider on R1 and R2, the feedback voltage from the output is applied. Moreover, the divider is selected in such a way that when the voltage we need appears at the output, there will be exactly 1.25 volts at the input of the comparator. Then everything is simple - is the output voltage lower than necessary? We're threshing. Did you get what you needed? Let's switch off.
- Vcc - Circuit Power
- GND - Ground
All formulas for calculating denominations are given in the datasheet. I will copy from it here the most important table for us:
Etched, soldered...
Just like that. A simple scheme, but it allows you to solve a number of problems.
It would seem that what else can be written about the boosting module MT3608 after articles from kirich?
But I have my own small application, and I didn’t even have the brains to think of it myself: a friend suggested it. An article for those whose Chinese multimeter has run out of Krona batteries.
First of all, I was attracted by the low price, and somehow I didn’t look at the seller’s rating... On Ali sometimes, very rarely, but there are normal sellers with low ratings. For a good start in the market, you need to make every effort and this seller, IMHO, understands this perfectly. 
I ordered for at least $2: 4 modules under review and - the order arrived in 16 days (Ukraine, Kharkov), and there were not 50 transistors, but 100!
Judging by the fact that they are ringing with a positive probe at the base, this is n-p-n, base-collector and base-emitter resistance 773 Ohm. I have noticed cases before that the first buyer is sent additional goodies, this time I was lucky too! 
The parcel was packed not without a bubble, the return address is almost “Kyubei”: 
So, back to the multimeter... This is what it looks like for me: 
They're burning up the batteries! All this lies on the table and is almost not transportable. For its normal operation, a voltage of around 8-9V is required, the current is “extremely small” (there is nothing to measure it with). I don’t even want to buy a Krona, because there are a lot of batteries, and in order to somehow lighten the design, it was decided to place a booster module inside. 
There are no LEDs on it - and that's good! It’s a shame to unsolder it, I’m tired of covering it with black hot glue.
We connect power (2 or more volts) to the input of the board, rotate the variable resistor and, while still using a live multimeter, monitor the voltage at the output of the board: 
when the voltage at the input changes, the output maintains the specified 
set it to 9-something volts.
A switch can be installed in front of the board, the battery(s) can be placed inside the case, and it can even be charged using a $0.2 charge board. 
But a couple of batteries on wires outside wouldn’t hurt me, it’s more universal.
I turned it on for dialing - it beeps and fills: 
A more complete and qualified review of this and other similar boosting modules from kirich you can read the link - - and it’s better to read that article before the manipulations described in this one, there are useful tips there;)
And also other reviews of this module.
Battery-powered devices will no longer surprise anyone; there are dozens of all kinds of toys and gadgets powered by batteries in every home. Meanwhile, few people have thought about the number of different converters that are used to obtain the necessary voltages or currents from standard batteries. These same converters are divided into several dozen different groups, each with its own characteristics, but in this moment time we are talking about step-down and step-up voltage converters, which are most often called AC/DC and DC/DC converters. In most cases, to build such converters, specialized microcircuits are used, which make it possible to build a converter of a certain topology with a minimum amount of wiring; fortunately, there are a great many power supply microcircuits on the market now.
You can consider the features of using these microcircuits for an infinitely long time, especially taking into account the entire library of datasheets and appnotes from manufacturers, as well as countless number of conditionally advertising reviews from representatives of competing companies, each of which tries to present their product as the highest quality and most versatile. This time we will use discrete elements on which we will assemble several simple step-up DC/DC converters that serve to power a small low-power device, for example, an LED, from 1 battery with a voltage of 1.5 volts. These voltage converters can easily be considered a weekend project and are recommended for assembly by those who are taking their first steps into the wonderful world of electronics.
This diagram shows a relaxation self-oscillator, which is a blocking oscillator with counter-connection of the transformer windings. The principle of operation of this converter is as follows: when turned on, the current flowing through one of the windings of the transformer and the emitter junction of the transistor opens it, as a result of which it opens and more current begins to flow through the second winding of the transformer and the open transistor. As a result, an EMF is induced in the winding connected to the base of the transistor, which turns off the transistor and the current through it is interrupted. At this moment, the energy stored in the magnetic field of the transformer, as a result of the phenomenon of self-induction, is released and a current begins to flow through the LED, causing it to glow. Then the process is repeated.
The components from which this simple step-up voltage converter can be assembled can be completely different. A circuit assembled without errors is highly likely to work correctly. We even tried using the MP37B transistor - the converter functions perfectly! The most difficult thing is to make a transformer - it must be wound with a double wire on a ferrite ring, while the number of turns does not play a special role and ranges from 15 to 30. Less does not always work, more does not make sense. Ferrite - any, it doesn’t make much sense to take an N87 from Epcos, just like looking for a domestically produced M6000NN. The currents flowing in the circuit are negligible, so the size of the ring can be very small; an outer diameter of 10 mm will be more than enough. A resistor with a resistance of about 1 kilo ohm (no difference was found between resistors with a nominal value of 750 ohms and 1.5 kohms). It is advisable to choose a transistor with a minimum saturation voltage; the lower it is, the more discharged the battery can be used. The following were tested experimentally: MP 37B, BC337, 2N3904, MPSH10. LED - any available one, with the caveat that a powerful multi-chip one will not glow at full strength.
The assembled device looks like this:
The board size is 15 x 30 mm, and can be reduced to less than 1 square centimeter using SMD components and a small enough transformer. Without a load, this circuit does not work.
The second circuit is a typical step-up converter made with two transistors. The advantage of this circuit is that during its manufacture there is no need to wind the transformer, but just take a ready-made inductor, but it contains more parts than the previous one.
The operating principle boils down to the fact that the current through the inductor is periodically interrupted by transistor VT2, and the self-induction energy is directed through the diode to capacitor C1 and transferred to the load. Again, the circuit is workable with completely different components and element values. Transistor VT1 can be BC556 or BC327, and VT2 BC546 or BC337, diode VD1 can be any Schottky diode, for example, 1N5818. Capacitor C1 - any type, with a capacity from 1 to 33 μF, no longer makes sense, especially since you can do without it altogether. Resistors - with a power of 0.125 or 0.25 W (although you can also supply powerful wire-wound ones, about 10 watts, but this is more wasteful than necessary) of the following ratings: R1 - 750 Ohm, R2 - 220 KOhm, R3 - 100 KOhm. At the same time, all resistor values can be completely freely replaced with those available within 10-15% of those indicated; this does not affect the performance of a correctly assembled circuit, but it does affect the minimum voltage at which our converter can operate.
The most important part is inductor L1, its rating can also differ from 100 to 470 μH (values up to 1 mH have been experimentally tested - the circuit works stably), and the current for which it should be designed does not exceed 100 mA. Any LED, again taking into account the fact that the output power of the circuit is very small. A correctly assembled device starts working immediately and does not need to be configured.
The output voltage can be stabilized by installing a zener diode of the required value in parallel with capacitor C1, however, it should be remembered that when connecting a consumer, the voltage may sags and become insufficient.
ATTENTION! Without load, this circuit can produce voltages of tens or even hundreds of volts! If used without a stabilizing element at the output, capacitor C1 will be charged to the maximum voltage, which, if the load is subsequently connected, can lead to its failure!The converter is also made on a 30 x 15 mm board, which allows it to be attached to an AA size battery compartment. The PCB layout looks like this:
Both simple boost converter circuits can be made with your own hands and
can be successfully used in camping conditions, for example in a lantern or lamp for lighting a tent, as well as in various electronic homemade products, for which the use of a minimum number of batteries is critical.
What to do if your iPhone camera is cloudy
Self-instruction manual for working on a computer: fast, easy, effective
How to activate national roaming?
How to enable Wi-Fi on an Acer laptop?
The fastest internet in the world, what is the speed?